This big, young Pinot should have been held back before release, because it’s really tannic and primary now, making its future hard to evaluate. However, it seems a likely cellar candidate. It’s fresh in acids and clearly has a pedigree of terroir, showing mineral-infused raspberries, cherries, rhubarbs, wild strawberries, and pomegranates, accented with rich, smoky oak. The texture is pure silk, and the finish is firmly dry. Give it until 2012, at the very least.——S.H.(3/1/2010)—— 94