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酒款
澳大利亞名莊

Weingut Clemens-Busch Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany
點(diǎn)擊次數(shù):2924

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酒款類型:
酒莊:
克萊門斯·布希酒莊
產(chǎn)區(qū):
德國(guó) Germany > 摩澤爾 Mosel
釀酒葡萄:
雷司令  
酒款年份:
NV年
酒款綜述OVERVIEW
關(guān)于“Weingut Clemens-Busch Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany ”的酒款綜述
權(quán)威評(píng)分SCORE
關(guān)于“Weingut Clemens-Busch Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany”的評(píng)分
酒款年份
評(píng)分者
分?jǐn)?shù)
評(píng)分時(shí)間
2018年
Wine Spectator 全球發(fā)行量最大的葡萄酒專業(yè)刊物之一,創(chuàng)辦于1976年。
《葡萄酒觀察家》
90
 
A well-crafted, dry version, with floral aromas and flavors, displaying elderflower, quince blossom and cantaloupe notes. Shows good concentration, yet retains elegance. The acidity imparts focus and balance as this extends on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 1,800 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–AZ??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add
2014年
Wine Spectator 全球發(fā)行量最大的葡萄酒專業(yè)刊物之一,創(chuàng)辦于1976年。
《葡萄酒觀察家》
89
 
This has a nice richness to the ripe apple and pear tart flavors, which feature notes of white pepper. Citrus zest accents linger on the minerally and piney finish. Biodynamic. Drink now through 2020. 150 cases imported.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add
2011年
Wine Advocate 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過(guò)《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
89
WA, #206Apr 2013
By dint of early October harvest in some of the non-terraced sections of his vineyards, and without sacrificing ripe flavors, Busch bottled a 2011 Riesling trocken of only 11% alcohol (which makes it especially unfortunate, if you ask me, that in deference to VDP proclivities he has removed the designation “Kabinett” that once applied to this bottling and offered a hook on which to dangle the allure of virtuous vinous levity). Fresh, juicy apple piquantly tinged with pip and brown spices is also shadowed by faintly fusil, alkaline notes, and in the finish a lick of salt helps serve for saliva-inducement. There is a subtle sense of textural creaminess to accompany the buoyancy and refreshment on offer. This nuanced offering should prove delightfully versatile over the next several years. For its aggregate of quality and quantity, insists Clemens Busch, 2011 was about as good as he’s ever gotten, even allowing for crop lost to downy mildew, to the late August hail storm, and to the consequent need to eliminate some early, negative botrytis. But he readily admits that the thin-skinned berries wouldn’t have held out more than a few additional days if the September rains hadn’t stopped. While a bit of wine was harvested already in the first days of October, he reports that the weather turned so warm he declared a week-long moratorium on picking. That, he says, was the second existentially critical point in this vintage’s history, because had the October heat continued, it, too, would have spoiled success. That there was considerable botrytis is testified to by this year’s range of ennoble bottlings – largely late-picked, and even those gold capsule designated approaching 200 liters each – and is probably connected with Busch’s organic and biodynamic vineyard regimen. For whatever reason, notes Busch, botrytis-affected musts this year seldom exhibited enhanced acidity; and that proved, to my palate, a handicap for some of them. Picking continued until November 20, which is about as late as any German grower was still at it in 2011. Passive lees contact, Busch opines, was key to providing needed structure and flavor definition to wines from this vintage’s high-sugar, relatively low-acid musts from thin-skinned berries, and I can only add that it almost surely helped in buffering the several bottlings that strayed into 14% alcohol territory. Most of the Busch 2011s were not bottled before mid-summer, and high-sugar musts were still fermenting or had only just ceased fermenting last September and were not to be bottled until after the harvest or possibly even after the new year, so that among dry-tasting single vineyard wines I could not taste Fahrlay-Terrassen, Felsenterrasse or Raffes. (By the same token, I report below on a couple of 2010s that had not yet been amenable to assessment when I reported on the bulk of Busch’s 2010s in issue 199.) Busch has acquired the excellent former local Lenz-Dahm cellar, where his stocks will henceforth be more adequately accommodated than they were in warehouse-like conditions, but vinification will continue to take place at the familiar home venue. As part of the deal, yet more vineyards were acquired, reinforcing what is now Busch’s overwhelming dominance of the Marienburg. As he never tires of pointing out, other growers could have made something of their precious legacy but found the rigor of farming such steep, terraced sites – effectively accessible from the village only by boat – too onerous; and sold-out to him over the years. Both Busch sons have become increasingly involved in their parents’ labors in recent years, the elder having focused on the evolution of the estate’s biodynamic regimen, and currently embarked on an extended work-residence in France.Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191
2010年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過(guò)《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
88
eRobertParker.com, #200Apr 2012
Even Busch’s generic 2010 Riesling trocken was not, he reports, harvested until nearly the end of October, and finished at what for this bottling is a typical 11.5% alcohol. A palpably extract-rich, waxy-textured palate gains interesting contrast from brightly tart lemony edges. Crushed stone, freshly milled grains and salt add interest and saliva-inducement to a refreshing if brisk finish. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 2-3 years. In contrast with most of his Riesling-growing countrymen, Clemens Busch claims that despite the vicissitudes of vintage 2010 and a harvest that lasted through the third week in November his (as always organically-raised) fruit was largely botrytis-free and amounted to a volume only 20% below long-term norms. What’s more, he claims to have harvested scarcely any (save botrytized) grapes at more than a high but manageable 11 grams of acidity and with a good 50% of that being tartaric. Of course, for wines to undergo malo-lactic transformation is not in the least unusual at this address and that was the case once again this year. But virtually all of Busch’s wines had finished both primary and malo-lactic fermentation (in some cases simultaneously – which he prefers – in others sequentially) by June, which is early for his estate. (Exception: one of three Trockenbeerenauslesen was still fermenting and had only reached 3.5% alcohol when I visited in September.) Low sulfur elevage with long lees contact is also normal here, but Busch believes that was especially critical for quality in 2010, guaranteeing that the wines would not harden and that healthy lees would perform a fining and imperfection-healing role such as he claims was taken for granted by Mosel growers two or three generations ago. Careful canopy management, notes Busch, was also critical to 2010 success as a condition for being able to sufficiently postpone picking. This year’s as usual long line-up, incidentally, should not be permitted to deceive: while there are many residually sweet wines in this latest collection, they make up only around 20% by volume of the estate’s 2010 crop. Busch testifies that there is quite a scramble now among young Punderich growers to get a toehold in the Marienburg’s steep slopes that he has in the meantime gone a considerable way toward monopolizing. “The fact is,” he points out, “that at least in their father’s generation such growers’ families had ample opportunity to rescue and cherish these steep slate slopes, but often instead heeded the call of fashion and invested in Dornfelder on the flat side of the river.”Mosel Wine Merchant (various importers); tel. (413) 429-6176; dm@moselwinemerchant.com ; +49 (0) 6742 8980 50; also imported by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312
2009年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過(guò)《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
88+
 
Busch’s generic 2009 Riesling trocken – corresponding, at 11.5% alcohol, to his “Kabinett trocken” bottlings of the past – is delightfully and distinctively scented with yellow tomato, raw pumpkin, and white peach, along with hints of lemon rind that adumbrate the brightness to be found on a firm though perhaps mildly bottling-stressed palate, leading to a cleansing, refreshing finish. I would plan on enjoying it over the coming 3-4 years. “It was no lovely autumn,” notes Clemens Busch candidly. “We had to pick our botrytis wines very early. We had regular rain from the end of October on, and one really had to take great advantage of the dry days to finish.” Busch reports that while his lower-tier lots largely fermented unproblematically to dryness, his riper single-vineyard bottlings were sluggish, several ending up in the legally halbtrocken territory that I have personally tended to prefer at this address, not least because of the tendency for the trocken lots to betray elevated alcohol. Busch – for more about whose methods, style, and vineyards consult the estate introductions as well as the tasting notes in others of my recent Mosel reports – is unwilling to employ cultured yeasts or otherwise intervene to achieve legal dryness. In view of an unfounded and frankly uninformed phobia many Riesling lovers have when it comes to the very idea, it should be pointed out that most of Busch’s dry-tasting Rieslings have since 2001 undergone malo-lactic transformation. That did not however happen with his 2008s (whose high pH levels precluded it) and only selectively with these 2009s. Furthermore, in Busch’s cellar, this transformation – normally not profound, as his ripe fruit is typically not high in malic acid – generally takes place as an interruption during – rather than subsequent to – the alcoholic fermentation. This peculiarity, he contends, explains the absence of diacetyl or other problematic potential byproducts. Even the lighter cuvees here were not bottled until the three weeks leading up to my mid-September visit, and among those wines then being prepped for bottling were a Felsterrasse and Raffes too shaken-up from filtration for me to judge. That the nobly sweet wines here are as notable for their high quality as their abundance I suppose doesn’t need repeating, provided you survey my ratings.Mosel Wine Merchant Trier, Germany (various importers); tel. (413) 429-6176; +49 (0) 651 14551 38; also imported by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312
本酒款釀酒葡萄資料ABOUT GRAPE
雷司令(Riesling)
雷司令(Riesling) 典型香氣:椴花、青蘋果、葡萄、檸檬、青檸、柑橘、桃子、杏、菠蘿、芒果、蜂蜜、烘烤和煙熏等 起源:雷司令(Riesling)是德國(guó)最古老的葡萄品種之一,該品種于1435年第一次在文獻(xiàn)中被提及,很可能起源于德國(guó)的萊茵高(Rheingau)地區(qū)。DNA檢測(cè)結(jié)果表明,雷司令與西歐最古老、多產(chǎn)的葡萄品種之一——白高維… 【詳情】
本酒款產(chǎn)區(qū)資料ABOUT REGION
摩澤爾(Mosel) 摩澤爾(Mosel)產(chǎn)區(qū)的葡萄酒產(chǎn)量位居德國(guó)13大產(chǎn)區(qū)中的第三位,但其國(guó)際知名度卻領(lǐng)先于其他產(chǎn)區(qū)。在1997年8月1日以前,它的名字一直是摩澤爾·薩爾·烏沃(Mosel-Saar-Ruwer),但之后統(tǒng)稱為摩澤爾(Mosel),方便消費(fèi)者記憶。該產(chǎn)區(qū)位于蜿蜒曲折的摩澤爾(Mosel River)河的兩岸,穿… 【詳情】
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