The Muller-Catoir 2009 Haardter Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken adds additional creaminess to that displayed by the corresponding generic bottling, yet there are also clarity and juiciness, with a shimmering underlying sense of saline, chalky, and crystalline mineral notes. Green tea and fresh celery convey a metaphorically cooling aspect, and even at 12.5% alcohol this is almost delicately buoyant. Less effusive, transparent, or striking than its generic counterpart, I’d just give this a bit of time. It should hold well for 4-6 years if not longer. “Despite sporadic rain at harvest time,” notes Martin Franzen about the 2009 harvest, “cool weather kept botrytis completely at bay. Frankly,” he adds, “it was hard to make disappointing wine with raw materials of this caliber.” But it was also impossible to achieve nobly sweet results save from Rieslaner, with its notorious penchant for spontaneous desiccation even in the absence of botrytis. This is the first vintage, incidentally, for which this estate has claimed organic bona fides, and Franzen – even if predictably – claims to find additional depth in his wines thanks to that conversion. (Not that this estate has ever been anything but entirely circumspect in any use of herbicides or pesticides.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2007 Haardter Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken represents a wine that might in the recent past at Muller-Catoir have been designated with the site name Mandelring or Monchgarten. With smoky overtones to its nose of cider and citrus oils, this is decidedly creamy and glycerin-endowed, yet still refreshingly bright, piquantly bringing out the familiar hazelnut side of Pinot Blanc in its satisfyingly rich yet juicy finish. Like its “l(fā)esser” sibling, this should – as is always the case with well-crafted wines of its variety – prove versatile at table, in this instance for at least 4-5 years. You had to play poker and take some chances this year, remarked Martin Franzen, and based on the vinous evidence, he repeatedly played winning hands. The stylistic evolution of wines under Franzen’s and proprietor Philip Catoir’s direction – which I honestly find it difficult to understand why so many commentators view as utterly discontinuous with the legacy of legendary former cellar master Hans-Gunter Schwarz – has run toward increasing refinement and subtlety in the Rieslings, for which conditions in 2007 – assuming (as one can, here) impeccable viticultural husbandry and patience at harvest – were ultimately ideal (even as they had been problematic in 2006). Franzen has turned out the first totally masterful Scheurebe collection of his career this year. And the nobly sweet wines – including, improbably, six tour de force TBAs, among which are the estate’s first-ever from Muskateller and Weissburgunder and first Scheurebe TBA since 1964 – dazzle with the audacity and at times raucousness that routinely accrue to nobly sweet Pfalz 2007s, and are at their best unsurpassed. Nearly all of this year’s collection (save for one refusenik Rieslander TBA) had been bottled already in April, a bold strategy considering how downright unsettled by nature some of them are. But capturing all of their energy in bottle seemed to be the governing metaphor. I cannot resist pointing out that – in keeping with a lamentable national trend – there is now not just no halbtrocken wine here, but no middle ground: every wine this year is either legally trocken or obviously sweet. Muller-Catoir is increasing their acreage of Pinot Blanc – in itself a welcome development, although partisans of Rieslaner will be dismayed to learn that it is coming at that variety’s expense.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

This Pinot Blanc is broader and fuller-bodied than M-C’s Rieslings, but not as minerally or complex. It’s easy to drink, featuring exotic notes of mango and banana balanced by citrus blossom and chalk.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 89