Weighing-in (as did its Spatlese counterpart) at 9.5% alcohol, Muller-Catoir’s 2009 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Auslese incorporated in Franzen’s words “shriveled and browned berries, but scarcely any botrytis,” material separated-out from the simultaneous harvest of Spatlese. Butterscotch, glazed pineapple, white raisin, banana, and eucalyptus intensely scent this concentrated nose; then migrate to a lush yet overtly, brightly citric palate. Peppery pungency, saliva-inducing salinity, and the bitter side of toasted pralines further assist in maintaining heightened stimulation while warding-off any tendency toward over-sweetness. This viscous and unapologetically confectionary Rieslaner generates slightly less excitement than the more vivacious and deftly-balanced Spatlese, but I expect there will be times over the next 20-25 years when the overtly richer of these two also seems the more exciting. “Despite sporadic rain at harvest time,” notes Martin Franzen about the 2009 harvest, “cool weather kept botrytis completely at bay. Frankly,” he adds, “it was hard to make disappointing wine with raw materials of this caliber.” But it was also impossible to achieve nobly sweet results save from Rieslaner, with its notorious penchant for spontaneous desiccation even in the absence of botrytis. This is the first vintage, incidentally, for which this estate has claimed organic bona fides, and Franzen – even if predictably – claims to find additional depth in his wines thanks to that conversion. (Not that this estate has ever been anything but entirely circumspect in any use of herbicides or pesticides.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Rieslaner is an “interesting” variety, with aromas and flavors that take some getting used to. In this case, there are hints of brown sugar, lime and dried mushrooms. There are also some sweet, smoky notes that bring certain rock concerts to mind. It’s a strange grape, but this is a very good example.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 89