Pink grapefruit, banana, apple candy, creme de cassis, peony, gardenia, and a light veil of CO2 and yeasts inform the heady, almost suffocatingly-ripe nose of St. Urbans-Hof’s 2009 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese, leading me to anticipate a palate enveloping and plush to the point of smothering, which is exactly what gets delivered. Yet there isn’t a hint of heaviness, and the finish is remarkably refined, the diversity of flavors that appeared so forward up front settling down to a very subtle yet superbly persistent colloquy. Expect this to need 8-10 years to show its full potential and to enjoy at least two decades of rudely good health. Nik Weis thinks 2009 – in which his team harvested well into November – really demonstrated the cumulative effects from a decade of intensively “in gardener’s fashion” hoeing the soil, composting, pruning short, returning wire-trained vines to single posts, and in general farming so as to put the brakes on sugar accumulation in the grapes and permit ripening to greater incipient complexity as well as delicacy. This entails inter alia backing-off from too aggressive a green harvest when it comes to the very best sites, and leaving a few more bunches to hang for longer. “Anytime you’re in a position to harvest a Trockenbeerenauslese from the Ockfener Bockstein, and you feel compelled to place the Piesporter Goldtropfchen before the corresponding Ockfener Bockstein in the tasting sequence, that’s a great vintage,” says Weis, echoing a traditional sentiment that Saar Rieslings are a touchstone of top quality throughout the greater Mosel region. Indeed, this collection offers the very apotheosis of Bockstein, and if you don’t think this site (or at least, the finest parts of it) is truly great – I didn’t myself until I encountered old wines at this address 15 years ago – get ready to have a conversion experience! Incidentally, Weis has bought up the rest of the original Zickelgarten within Bockstein, so that were he to win permission to re-activate that site name (retained in the 1971 Wine Law but last utilized by Kesselstatt in 1983 and later abrogated after no subsequent owners chose to declare it) he would have a really top-class monopole. For the second year running at this address – and despite the fact that fermentations were relatively fleet – there is only a single legally trocken bottling, namely the inaugural Grosses Gewachs – not coincidentally a loner as well for having been fermented with cultured yeasts in order to insure that its finished residual sugar qualified for the club in question.Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917)-402-0456

An exotic version, featuring vanilla, herb and spice aromas and flavors revolving around a core of apple and Key lime pie. Plenty of flavor and character are locked up in this light-weight, sleek frame. Best from 2014 through 2030. 100 cases made, 25 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

From the estate’s oldest vines in that site, the St. Urbans-Hof 2008 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese smells headily of apple, pink grapefruit, quince preserves, white raisin, and lily, which foreshadow a lushness and honeyed sweetness of the palate that tart hints of grapefruit rind and savory salinity both compliment and help to counteract. Even more than some of the estate’s other 7.5% alcohol sweet 2008s, this displays delicacy that is practically dramatic as well as a remarkable marriage of opulence with refreshment and alkaline, stony, saline minerality that you’ll have trouble getting off your palate. Sankt Urbans-Hof, notes proprietor Nik Weis, experienced a good ten degrees Oechsle difference in 2008 between its ripest Saar fruit – bottled as Spatlese – and that of the Mosel, which reached Auslese level even without stringent selection of botrytis fruit. “We find this a terrific vintage,” remarks Weis – who compares its style with 1998 – “inasmuch as at long last we again have the clear differentiation between Kabinett as it should be, Spatlese, and ennobled Auslese.” Remarkably, there is only a single trocken bottling here this year (from Mehring) which I did not taste and which was destined for the Landhaus Sankt Urban restaurant of Weis’s sister and brother-in-law.Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917)-402-0456