For those who can catch a half bottle from the mere 30 liters of Wittmann’s 2004 Westhofener Moorstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, it isn’t easy to describe what they’ll have gotten. (And yes, some of this really was imported stateside!) Candied lemon, glazed pineapple and honey in the nose lead to a creamy, rich, dense but not particularly oily palate that is remarkably restrained. Pure honey, brown sugar, and candied citrus are much in evidence, but none of the decadent personality of this wine’s three nobly sweet predecessors. The overall impression is sleek on the palate, spherical in structure, and something of a cipher, with a finish that isn’t yet complex but is astonishingly pure and refined, and hovers endlessly. Importers: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700