Almond, lime and lemon in the nose of Zilliken’s 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett trocken lead to a juicily citric and palpably dense palate accented with cyanic bitterness of apple pips and not only holding on impressively in the finish, but holding an edge like a knife, even if one forged from slate rather than steel. This rather spare but memorably bright and invigorating dry Riesling will be worth following for at least 4-5 years. It might seem hard to believe that Hanno Zilliken could once again out-performed a vintage in the way that he did 2005 and 2006. But his having designated an unprecedented four different wines of the 2007 vintage as auction offerings certainly speaks to his confidence – well-founded, I would say – in the quality of this collection’s top end. The vintage’s “Riesling Butterfly” – stemming largely from Saarburg’s Antoniousbrunnen and Bergschlosschen vineyards (behind the Rausch, and overlooking a tiny Saar tributary) and in only small measure from the Rausch and Bockstein – was reviewed in issue 184 and remains lovely, if at present less generous than there-described. No off-dry generic estate Riesling was bottled this vintage, and with 2008 Zilliken will be seen to have made other changes in the lower half of his price list.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

Zilliken’s 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett trocken registers the same 11.5% alcohol as its Q.b.A. counterpart, but here he has captured fruit with a great deal more refinement and inherent complexity. Scents and flavors of cherry, apricot, lime and wet stone, a strikingly creamy even though bright and invigorating palate, and a long finish accented by cherry pit and wet stone are this Riesling’s obvious virtues. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463