The 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule A.P. #7, another auction lot, smells sharply of lemon, mandarin, dried apricot, and white raisin, then comes onto the palate as a creamy, pulpy, palpably extract-rich concentrate of white raisin, caramelized apricot and diverse, brilliantly shimmering citrus. The alternation of baked, dried and caramelized fruits with sharp, fresh citrus is initially almost jarring, but offers the sort of excitement one seeks on a roller coaster. As the wine opens up, it gains in clarity, lift, and delicacy, without sacrificing any of its remarkable intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463