Representing his “regular auction Auslese,” the 2007 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese A.P. #4 also reflects, per Zilliken, the point at which fruit went from golden to brown and purple, and there is a corresponding shift into the tropical fruit spectrum, with pink grapefruit and pineapple, but also mango, banana, and papaya. There is formidable sense of compression and density here, too, yet at the same time lift. Citrus zest, salt, and this imposingly creamy, subtly oily wine’s sheer accompanying brightness make not only for invigoration and refreshment, but near canceling out of its high residual sugar. The overall effect here seems attributable more to air-dried concentration than to botrytis. I have little doubt that this will remain superb for three decades.It might seem hard to believe that Hanno Zilliken could once again out-performed a vintage in the way that he did 2005 and 2006. But his having designated an unprecedented four different wines of the 2007 vintage as auction offerings certainly speaks to his confidence – well-founded, I would say – in the quality of this collection’s top end. The vintage’s “Riesling Butterfly” – stemming largely from Saarburg’s Antoniousbrunnen and Bergschlosschen vineyards (behind the Rausch, and overlooking a tiny Saar tributary) and in only small measure from the Rausch and Bockstein – was reviewed in issue 184 and remains lovely, if at present less generous than there-described. No off-dry generic estate Riesling was bottled this vintage, and with 2008 Zilliken will be seen to have made other changes in the lower half of his price list.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

The 2004 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese A.P. #4 evinces much riper character than the wines that went before. Smelling of ripe peach and mango, it comes onto the palate luscious and juicy, rich, yet with delicate notes of green apple skin and wet stone supplying flavor counterpoint and a sense of place. The finish adds suggestions of nut oils to the rich fruit character but misses the vividness or overall harmony and gustatory satisfaction of the corresponding Kabinett. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463