Weninger already makes impressive Blaufrankisch in Austria, so his endeavors with the same grape in Hungary (named Kekfrankos here) are, not surprisingly, successful. A wave of anise, black pepper and blueberry on the nose, paired with smooth, elegant and structured flavors of the same on the palate, impress. The wine has depth but a dry, poised overall character, which gives it a food-friendly edge.——S.K.(5/1/2008)—— 87