Marcus Haag’s 2009 Riesling trocken – as usual, from sites in Muhlheim and Burgen – is, rather unusually, his sole bottling of generically-labeled trocken Riesling this vintage. Apple and lemon laced with bitter notes of apple pip and salvia-inducing salinity make for brightness and invigoration surprising for its vintage, with hints of toasted nuts and stone adding interest to its finish. Plan to enjoy this smoothly-textured, refreshing Riesling over the next 3-4 years. According to Inge Haag, the impact of sporadic October rain was greater in Brauneberg than in most other Mosel villages, and losses to perosopera and negative botrytis led to an unusually small crop (reflected inter alia in the relative absence of wines that require reference to their A.P.#s to disambiguate!) and a relatively early conclusion to the harvest in the final days of October. Must weights, notes Markus Haag, were in an unusually narrow band this year, the choice of which lots to declare as being of which Pradikat falling almost entirely on the basis of style. Fruit from the Burgerslay vineyard so often responsible for the most distinctively delicious wines at this address was in 2009 spread around rather than being dedicated to a single bottling.Numerous importers, including Atlanta Improvement Co.; tel. (404) 876 4500, Imperial Beverage, Kalamazoo, MI; tel. (269) 382 4200, Import A-N-T Wines, Venice, FL; tel. (941) 493 3000, Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620