As is often the case at this address, there is only one Willi Haag 2010 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese. Pink grapefruit, papaya, and mango signal the extra element of ripeness as well as exoticism that accrue to this site. Unfortunately, that ripeness has been purchased at the expense of the purity and clarity that was possessed by some of this collection's wines of more -northerly- fruit orientation; and a faintly fungal expression of botrytis as well as a slightly unfocussed and sweet-sour finish results. Still, in its lush way this will offer satisfaction over at least the next several years. Markus and Inge Haag performed calcium carbonate de-acidification, at times in must, at times in wine, along with promoting malo-lactic transformation of some of their dry and off-dry cuvees. Results were decidedly mixed here this year. For practical purposes, Haags are gradually training all of their vines onto wires, but Markus admits, those that remain on traditional single posts could all be picked later this year, which was by no means a disadvantage.Numerous importers, including Atlanta Improvement Co.; tel. (404) 876 4500, Imperial Beverage, Kalamazoo, MI; tel. (269) 382 4200, Import A-N-T Wines, Venice, FL; tel. (941) 493 3000, Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Scents of peach and musk melon in the most of the Willi Haag 2009 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese presage a generously juicy, conspicuously sweet, polished, palate performance that culminates in a soothing, subtly stone-lined finish. I suspect this relatively soft Spatlese will be best enjoyed over the next decade. According to Inge Haag, the impact of sporadic October rain was greater in Brauneberg than in most other Mosel villages, and losses to perosopera and negative botrytis led to an unusually small crop (reflected inter alia in the relative absence of wines that require reference to their A.P.#s to disambiguate!) and a relatively early conclusion to the harvest in the final days of October. Must weights, notes Markus Haag, were in an unusually narrow band this year, the choice of which lots to declare as being of which Pradikat falling almost entirely on the basis of style. Fruit from the Burgerslay vineyard so often responsible for the most distinctively delicious wines at this address was in 2009 spread around rather than being dedicated to a single bottling.Numerous importers, including Atlanta Improvement Co.; tel. (404) 876 4500, Imperial Beverage, Kalamazoo, MI; tel. (269) 382 4200, Import A-N-T Wines, Venice, FL; tel. (941) 493 3000, Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Marcus Haag’s 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese comes from the so-called Junger Wingert portion of the Sonnenuhr site. A bouquet of buddleia, mint, fennel, and ripe peach leads to a palate with especially stark and scintillating juxtaposition of creaminess with profuse, luscious, bright pear and peach. Hints of pear skin and orange zest along with savory salinity enhance the invigorating, lip-smacking character of a polished performance that should justify at least a 15 year run. Marcus Haag has enjoyed another highly successful vintage in 2007, when his harvest lasted from October 12-27.Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620