Further picked-out from the material that comprised this year's gold capsule Auslese, a Willi Haag 2010 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese delivers pungently zest yet highly confectionary candied lemon and grapefruit peel; along with musky, faintly fungal, and dusty suggestions of botrytis. Subtly creamy in texture yet with its somewhat detached (14.6 grams) acidity displaying a certain stiffness, this is very much a wine in need of bottle time to point the way toward its destiny. At the very least, it will need a decade and might live three. But the promise suggested by the juicy generosity and energy of the corresponding Auslese gold capsule is not yet present here.Markus and Inge Haag performed calcium carbonate de-acidification, at times in must, at times in wine, along with promoting malo-lactic transformation of some of their dry and off-dry cuvees. Results were decidedly mixed here this year. For practical purposes, Haags are gradually training all of their vines onto wires, but Markus admits, those that remain on traditional single posts could all be picked later this year, which was by no means a disadvantage.Numerous importers, including Atlanta Improvement Co.; tel. (404) 876 4500, Imperial Beverage, Kalamazoo, MI; tel. (269) 382 4200, Import A-N-T Wines, Venice, FL; tel. (941) 493 3000, Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2006 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese A.P. #2 – picked out in various parcels over several days in mid-harvest – exudes pineapple, nectarine, mango, and white raisin. Very pure and concentrated in every respect, this is only lightly caramelized but implosively dried fruit in character, and at the same time shot through with bright, vibrant acidity. It needs time to find its harmony, and meantime is somewhat dominated by its sheer sweetness. Give it 20 years, and expect it to last that long again. Marcus Haag – whose wines often number among the best values in the Mosel – has followed up his unprecedented success in the 2005 vintage with a collection of 2006s again surpassing any of his career.Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700

Representing a selection done in many parcels late in the harvest, the 2006 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese A.P. #1 features mango, pineapple, and white raisin, much like its “# 2” sibling. But this is much more viscous and caramelized as well as less refined. That said, it is impressively rich and pure in its very sweet finish, with a saline mineral note adding some interest, and the effect of acidity that is hidden from view being felt in the wine’s sheer thrust. Give it at least 20 years and expect it to be very much alive 40 or more years hence, though exactly what it will have to say then, I couldn’t possibly predict.Marcus Haag – whose wines often number among the best values in the Mosel – has followed up his unprecedented success in the 2005 vintage with a collection of 2006s again surpassing any of his career.Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700

A 2005 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese A.P. #18 came about because this second batch of Beerenauslese took until May to complete its fermentation, and Haag did not want to risk losing the exceptional quality he had already achieved with the batch that became his A.P. #10. In any event, #18 exhibits even more of the best aspects of the #10, making it clearly Marcus Haag’s masterpiece to date and a candidate for three or more decade’s aging. This Beerenauslese opens with head-turning aromas of quince preserve and gardenia. Strikingly viscous and creamy with flavors of quince preserve and lovely inner-mouth florality, it exhibits a deft lightness of touch. The finish here positively soars, even as one remains continually conscious of the wine’s sheer concentration of flavors and enormous extract. The #10 may actually reverberate in more registers, but #18 has the advantage in purity, refinement of botrytis, and length.Also recommended: 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett trocken ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett feinherb ($ unknown; 85), 2005 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese A. P. #8 ($ unknown; 86). Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700