I consider the Willi Haag 2009 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett feinherb a classic Kabinett: light-weight, lip-smacking, mineral-inflected, and judiciously sweet. But I have sympathy for the use of “feinherb” on the label to call attention to the fact that the level of residual sugar in this Riesling is far below what has in the past dozen or so years become the new non-dry Kabinett norm (and the alcohol, at 11%, correspondingly higher). An invigorating salinity and sappy sense of fruit persistence make for a truly lip-smacking finish. This ought to delight for at least the next 6-8 years, though there is no reason to defer the pleasure of its company. According to Inge Haag, the impact of sporadic October rain was greater in Brauneberg than in most other Mosel villages, and losses to perosopera and negative botrytis led to an unusually small crop (reflected inter alia in the relative absence of wines that require reference to their A.P.#s to disambiguate!) and a relatively early conclusion to the harvest in the final days of October. Must weights, notes Markus Haag, were in an unusually narrow band this year, the choice of which lots to declare as being of which Pradikat falling almost entirely on the basis of style. Fruit from the Burgerslay vineyard so often responsible for the most distinctively delicious wines at this address was in 2009 spread around rather than being dedicated to a single bottling.Numerous importers, including Atlanta Improvement Co.; tel. (404) 876 4500, Imperial Beverage, Kalamazoo, MI; tel. (269) 382 4200, Import A-N-T Wines, Venice, FL; tel. (941) 493 3000, Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

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Still a bit yeasty, with cinnamon and pastry notes accented by orange and peach. Needs a little time to find its balance; there's more bass than treble now. Best from 2010 through 2020. 500 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

Marcus Haag’s 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett feinherb smells and tastes lusciously of peach, melon, and almond subtly tinged with herbs. Here as in others of the best Willi Haag 2007s, we are treated to an alliance of flattering creaminess of texture and richness of fruit with vivacity and a salty-savory, wet stone mineral sense. This is superbly balanced, so that its residual sugar is supportive but scarcely noticed. I would expect this to prove an exceptional value, and to keep well for at least 5-7 years. Marcus Haag has enjoyed another highly successful vintage in 2007, when his harvest lasted from October 12-27.Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620