One thing to be said straightaway, Haag’s 2004 Brauneberger Riesling Eiswein – which was harvested in Muhlheim but is legally allowed to use the “Brauneberg” name – certainly got my attention. A pungently smoky, lemony, peach nose warns of an impending palate impression that is hugely concentrated and honeyed, but also enamel-etching in its acidity – so much so that an almost unbelievable 200 grams of residual sugar is very nearly held in check. The finish is raucous, almost caustic, yet so incredibly dense, blazingly bright, and simultaneously awash in peach jam and honey as to suggest enough energy for several decade’s survival, during which who knows what might happen to its flavor personalityVarious importers, including Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700