Dry, complex and tannic now, a young Zinfandel that gives your mouth a sandpapery, grippy feeling. Flavorwise, the wine is a little direct in fruit, offering waves of wild black, red and blue berries, tamari, mocha, molasses, sandalwood and pepperspice flavors. Not many Zins require time, but this one will benefit from 4–8 years in a cool cellar.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 92