Readers who enjoy a sumptuous, full-bodied style of Amarone will find much to admire in Zenato’s 2004 Amarone. This big, richly-textured wine is loaded with dark fruit, licorice, spices, leather and chocolate, all of which flow from the glass in stunning style. The relatively high level of residual sugar (7.2 grams per liter) and aging in cask contribute to this wine’s traditional and very classic personality. Like the Valpolicella, the Amarone is 80% Corvina, 10% Sangiovese and 10% Rondinella. Simply put, this is a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. This is a superb set of wines from Zenato. Sadly, Sergio Zenato passed away earlier this year, but his children Alberto and Nadia, along with their mother Carla, are in good shape to provide continuity going forward.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Zenato is a sizeable negociant firm headquartered near Verona, but it also owns 175 acres of vineyards from which it makes some interesting selections. The best current offering is the 1998 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva, rich and sweet on the nose with plum and berry jam front and center, ripe and supple flavors, much volume and density, and a lengthy, balanced finish. Drink: 2004-2015.Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The outstanding 1997 Amarone Riserva Sergio Zenato exhibits a similar style to the 1998, but the fruit is muted and the wood is more noticeable. Nevertheless, it is an outstanding effort. Its 15% alcohol is well-concealed beneath layers of concentrated black fruits intermixed with hints of new saddle leather, melted asphalt, camphor, and pepper. Spicy, dense, and mouthfilling, it will drink well over the next 10-12 years.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620