From their precious 600 square meters of this fabled site, Kesselstatt's 2006 Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule (which bears the fuder number 13) offers an exotic cocktail of papaya, grapefruit, honey, and hints of blueberry. Amazingly clear and delicate on the palate despite creaminess, and with far less superficial sweetness than its sheer ripeness of fruit, honeyed tone, or for that matter the youthful personality of other nobly sweet wines from Doctor would lead one to expect, this introduces spice, nut oils, and dried fruit suggestions in its long finish. It's very early days here (as with the corresponding Josefshofer) but this is almost certainly a great wine in the making, and one to follow for 25-30 years.-We organized early,- says Annegret Reh-Gartner, -and then harvested in two weeks what we usually harvest in four.- She felt her hand was forced on the Saar when many of their vineyards were hailed on September 30, but by the time the crew was mobilized the heavy rain of October 3 was upon them.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424