The 2009 Nero d’Avola emerges from the glass with layers of vibrant, perfumed red fruit. This silky, graceful red offers tons of varietal character and wonderful balance in an up-front, juicy style I find particularly appealing. The Nero d’Avola is aged exclusively in steel, which helps preserve quite a bit of freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Colosi is an excellent source for fabulous values from Sicily. Year after year these are some of the most delicious wines I run across under $20 a bottle.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Aged only in stainless steel to preserve the freshness of the fruit, this wine is redolent of wild berries, violets, cola, crushed stone and licorice. The mouthfeel is sharp, clean and bright. ——M.L.(4/1/2012)—— 87