Like the Viognier de Rosine, Ogier's 2020 Condrieu la Combe de Malleval aims at balance and freshness rather than richness, with an attractive bouquet of fresh florals, citrus and stone fruit around a core of pineapple. It's labeled at only 12.5% alcohol yet shows ample weight and a silky feel on the palate allied to a lingering, smooth finish.