The 2007 Merlot Columbia Valley, which contains 11% Cabernet Franc with the balance Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in 30% new oak. Medium purple-colored, it offers up a nose of spice box, violets, cassis, cedar, and black cherry. Medium-bodied, supple, and easy-going with enough underlying structure to evolve for 1-2 years, this medium-long effort will drink well through 2019. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now is about to outgrow the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing, no doubt the main reason why L’Ecole seems to have survived the recession without too much pain.Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

This is a beautiful wine from the nose on out. Complex and aromatic, it has Italian-style tobacco scents, fresh acidity, leafy highlights, and undertones of tar, licorice and clove, all wrapped around tart, pie cherry fruit. ——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 91