The 2005 Ciro Rosso Classico Riserva Duca San Felice (Gaglioppo) is an earthy, rustic wine that offers plenty of brawn. Ideally it is best served alongside similarly hearty dishes. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Librandi is a good source for wines based on Calabria’s unique, quirky varieties. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Riserva Duca San Felice is an important wine that sets the bar for Calabria’s budding winemakers. Made with 100% Gaglioppo, the wine is lean and compact with vibrant aromas of chilled raspberry, drying minerals and white almond. Despite its lean appearance, it does deliver ample power and personality.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 88