It’s name – surprisingly – spelled with a “y” (once illegal), Battenfeld-Spanier’s 2008 Gruner Sylvaner trocken smells of herbs and buddleia; acts surprisingly low-acid for its vintage, with an oily richness and plushness of texture; and pits apple pip and pungent herbs against almond cream and autumn pear in a finish that barely hints at unexpected sweetness. This memorably distinctive expression of a too-seldom appreciated variety should prove very useful over at least the next 2-3 years. Oliver Spanier – for a bit about whose distinctive sites and methods see issue 185 – harvested his 2008 vintage Rieslings from mid-October through the first week of November, and reports having performed no de-acidification.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799