Knoll’s 2005 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg smells demurely of herbs and a hint of black pepper. In the mouth, it is imposingly dense, yet juicy and quite svelte, with little fat on its bones. The finish of citrus and pepper is surprisingly simple and understated, though undeniably long. Perhaps it is just in a demure phase. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700