The hugely spicy 2003 Corton-Charlemagne Cuvee Speciale (white) is a hedonist’s delight. Thick, hugely concentrated, and velvety-textured, it coats the taster’s palate with super-ripe white fruits, roasted oak, a myriad of spices, and apple marmalade. Its outstanding depth (the deepest 2003 I tasted), power, balance, richness, and length are superb. Projected maturity: now-2020. Bravo to Patrick Javillier! A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; also imported by David Shiverick, Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800; and Wines Ltd., Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662