The 2010 Chapelle-Chambertin bursts from the glass with sweet dark cherries, violets, licorice and spices. It boasts gorgeous delineation and a totally weightless, translucent personality that only red Burgundy (and possibly Nebbiolo) is capable of. A final burst of mineral-drenched red fruits stains the palate on the vibrant finish. The Chapelle is shaping up to be a jewel of a wine. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Cecile Tremblay started harvesting on September 21. Like all of her colleagues, Tremblay suffered losses of 30-40% of her crop because of the weather conditions in 2010. Tremblay used 30% stems of the Echezeaux, but destemmed the fruit for all of her other wines as she didn’t feel the stems were fully ripe. As always, the approach to winemaking is pretty stripped down to the bare essentials. The wines age on their lees with no rackings until they are prepared for bottling. Lastly, nearly everything you read about Cecile Tremblay makes mention that she is the grand-niece of Henri Jayer. While that fact is interesting from a historical perspective and explains the source of her holdings, it doesn’t make her wines good or bad. Frankly, these wines don’t need to stand on anyone else’s reputation. They are exceptional in their own right. I also tasted the 2010 Vosne-Romanee Les Rouges du Dessus, a highly promising wine that was still finishing its malolactic fermentation in November 2011 and was therefore hard to read.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Tremblay's 2010 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has now decisively overtaken the 2009. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of plums, licorice, exotic spices, rose petals, raw cocoa, forest floor and a discreet framing of new oak, it's full-bodied, layered and complete, with a deep core of fruit, lively acids and a concentrated, elegantly muscular profile. This is beginning to become approachable, but it still has considerable potential to improve with further bottle age.