I tasted this wine without knowing what it was, and my first thought was that more restaurants (okay, I think my musing was as specific as “tapas restaurants”) should serve this wine by the glass. Though only the more progressive Spanish joints would serve an Aussie, it’s really what a food-friendly, by-the-glass pour should be. It’s soft and comfortable in the mouth, like broken-in loafers, with brambly, pretty plum and raspberry fruit on both the nose and the palate.——D.T.(11/15/2004)—— 86