Cabernet-specialist St. Supery has succeeded with this dry, elegant Merlot. Held back for 6 years, it’s still quite tannic, with black cherry and smoky oak flavors. Makes the cheeks pucker with astringency. Probably at its best soon, with rich fare, like lamb, that need tannins to cut through the fat.——S.H.(11/1/2009)—— 88