Somewhat controversial, this 1999 Spanish white is produced from 110-year old white Grenache. The medium gold color appears oxidized, but the nose offers pear and mineral aromas, with no hint of oxidation. In the mouth, there is surprising ripeness and richness as well as abundant quantities of chewy fruit in addition to high glycerin levels. Although not for everybody, this is a well-made effort. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. ERIC SOLOMON, EUROPEAN CELLARS, 236 West 27 St., Room 801, New York, NY 10001; tel. (212) 924-4949; fax (212) 924-0567