A bitter-sweet resin, herbal extract, and smoked meat nose on the Barmes 2004 Gewurztraminer Hengst segues into an overtly chalky, rather big-boned as well as big-bodied palate, and a finish of considerable power, striking chalkiness, and – despite a hit of heat – plenty of sappy stamina.The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.
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