The Loosen 2006 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese suggest herbal candy and lozenges, Chartreuse-like floral-herbal distillate, honey, and over-ripe honeydew melon. Hints of smoke and wet stone add interest and there is a lovely sense of levity to the long finish, which is clearly balanced and energized by springs of ripe acidity that aren’t directly obvious. (This has only 7.5% alcohol.) Here, too we should have a long – probably 30-year – keeper. Ernst Loosen, Bernard Schug, and their team finished their harvest on October 6, before many growers had even begun. “Thank goodness we were able to bring 15 people up from Weingut J. L. Wolf in the Pfalz,” says Loosen about the hectic and heroic day-and-night harvest of 2006. “We’ve never before had 50 people out there in the vineyards.” “Those guys from the Pfalz had just plain had it at the end, I can tell you,” adds Schug, without a trace of humor. But he brightens when assessing the vintage as a whole. “I considered the 2005s the best collection of my career, but at this stage, I don’t think 2006 as a whole is weaker.” During the past three vintages in his collaborative work with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State, Loosen points out, he has moved on to their harvest after that of his own estate in the “cool climate ‘Old World.’” Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255

Ripe, golden orchard fruit shines. Apple, lime and stone notes mingle and persist through the finish. Ends with a long aftertaste of honey. Drink now through 2030. 200 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add

This is a rather sweet auslese, but the sugars are balanced by crisp acids, which impart backbone to the wine. They form a solid spine from which the opulent flavors of superripe pineapple and honeyed citrus are suspended. Finishes with verve and a flourish of crushed-stone minerality.——J.C.(12/15/2008)—— 90