The Loosen 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese continues the themes of lime, tangerine, and sassafras of other Treppchen bottlings here this year, now adding an aura of over-ripe musk melon and a glaze of honey on a creamily-textured palate. This finishes low-key, but long, and will probably show more complexity in the course of what could easily be 20 or more years of felicitous evolution. (A yeasty, cheesy, fermentative overlay prevented Loosen’s 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese from being adequately assessed. It also exhibited some slightly prickly, unruly elements, though not, Schug insists, from botrytis.) Despite slightly disappointing dry wines, and Kabinetts and nobly sweet wines that do not reach the heights established in those genres by this estate’s 2005s and 2006s respectively, Ernst Loosen and his cellar-master Bernard Schug have nonetheless scored considerable success in 2007, a vintage they describe as temperamentally between 2005 and 2004. As regards style and success rate, the comparison with 2004 seems about right to me. Harvest began already in the first week of October, but as usual at this address with its enormous acreage of top-notch vineyards, the early phase was taken up principally with highly selective picking for nobly sweet wine. “From the first day to the last,” comments Loosen, “each picker gets two tubs” for separating qualities of fruit. “And there were shriveled, TBA-quality grapes already on the first day this year,” adds Schug. Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

Really juicy, offering apricot, nectarine and lime flavors tinged by mineral, all of it packed into a light-weight frame. This shows great cut and balance, with a lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2035. 100 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

This thrilling auslese starts off with intriguing spicy, musky aromas, then moves easily into flavors of pear, melon, pineapple and even red berries on the palate. It somehow comes across as plump, yet crytalline and pure, with a long, fruit-driven finish. Drink now–2030.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 93