If any proof were needed that Touriga Nacional is one of Portugal’s greatest vinous treasures, this wine offers it. It is both elegant and densely powerful, a many-layered wine that has firmly dry tannins (give it another 2–3 years of aging), herbs and black fruits and a big, chunky aftertaste that trails a lift of acidity. ——R.V.(3/1/2007)—— 90