The 2009 Nuits St.-Georges Les Vaucrains caresses the palate with an elegant, feminine expression of fruit. The Vaucrains is all about restraint, class and refinement. It is a totally sublime wine that will blossom with further time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Enticing nose of earth, dried herb, black cherry and blueberry. Pure, concentrated and very primary with a good finish. It has quite grippy tannins and very, classic, earthy dark fruit and a long, velvety finish. Drink: 2012%u20132018. Alc: 13.5%.