The 2008 Awatea was bottled just a month before I tasted the wine, having completed its 20 months ageing in new and old French barriques. Unsurprisingly it has a very Bordeaux-like nose with blackberry, raspberry, a touch of liquorice and scorched earth. The palate is medium-bodied, firm tannins, very classic in style with superb balance. There is definitely a nod to the Old World here, a touch of leafiness towards the cedar-infused finish and great length. Perhaps it will not be such a long-term rider as vintages of Awatea since it does not quite have the weight, but it is well-crafted and very ‘true’. Drink 2012-2018. This 2009 Awatea barrel sample suggests that the 2009 could turn out to be a spectacular Awatea. It is a little introverted on the nose, mulberry, a touch of cloves and allspice, just a little reduction at the moment but it will blow away. The palate is full-bodied with a confident, brisk entry: firm tarry tannins and already demonstrating much more weight and penetration than the 2008. Very well defined with a wonderful, almost animally finish, there is already so much character and charm here. John Buck OBE and his son Nicholas continue their hone their craft at one of New Zealand’s most respected wineries and winemaker Peter Cowley has fashioned a clutch of stunning wines in both 2008 and 2009. Both tank samples of their flagship Coleraine and Awatea 2009 are bona fide classics in the making, whilst their entry Woodthorpe range of wines offer a costcutting introduction to the delights of Hawkes Bay varietals without cutting quality.