A big step up from the disappointing 2006, this value-priced Pinot combines genuine Pinot Noir varietal character with a restrained elegance more typical of Burgundy than Oregon. Tart red fruits, orange peel, lots of acid and a buoyant, food-friendly balance keeps it lively through the finish. A lovely match for salmon, among many other choices.——P.G.(4/1/2009)—— 87