Charles Schleret fashions Vendange Tardives and Selection de Grains Nobles with significantly less residual sugar than the majority of his peers, "I want subtlety, not sugar," he says.The riveting 1997 Riesling Herrenweg Cuvee Exceptionelle Selection de Grains Nobles exhibits feminine raspberry and floral aromas. It is a subtle wine, with precise perfumed, lace-like flavors of cherries, red currants, and hints of minerals. This concentrated, velvety-textured wine is amazingly complex, nuanced, and light on its feet for an SGN. Projected maturity: now-2015.Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990.