For fine value, the 1998 Marques de Borba white wine is a blend of three indigenous varietals that few readers are likely to ever have encountered. This wine, fermented and aged in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks, is crisp, with a Thai lemon grass note to the bouquet, as well as refreshing, light-bodied, subtle fruit flavors. It is an ideal aperitif wine. Drink it over the next 6-12 months.Readers who have not yet tried some of the exciting wines emerging from Portugal need to search out this offering from Joao Portugal Ramos. This offering represents an excellent value.FRAN KYSELA, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258