Intensely ester-rich distilled fruit, and pungent botrytis aromas eminate from Kerpen’s 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. Apricot preserves, apple jelly, brown spices, lemon, and caramel inform a viscous, as yet somewhat superficially sweet palate – but then, this is a 40-50 year wine. No question here though that there is already youthful clarity and refinement, and the sheer intensity is so striking it caused me to swallow hard even as I imagined I was going to spit! Lock this polished – but as yet largely uncut – gem away for at least 15 years. Then revisit. Martin Kerpen and his vines had a hard act to follow after their successes in 2005 but were more than up to the task, confirming the hypothesis that these always excellent wines have crossed a new quality threshold. Still, the last place I would have imagined 2006s keeping pace was in the range of trocken. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300