Selected-out in the press house from the fruit that was picked for the corresponding Beerenauslese, Kerpen’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese displays far nobler mysteries, beginning with bread-like, truffly, and ethereally honeyed aromas over a deep, pure pool of quince and apricot preserves; apple jelly; and vanilla cream. At just over 6% alcohol, this barely-wine displays seductive creaminess allied to near weightlessness and refreshment that suggests lemon chiffon glazed with quince and apricot preserves. While at 11 grams it’s marginally higher in acidity than the corresponding B.A., here that’s sublimated and harnessed to a focused, lusciously long finish. This should outlive most of those old enough to legally purchase a bottle today, but if you get a chance and can afford to, don’t hesitate, because I am sure it will be glorious at nearly every stage of its bottle evolution, and might well become yet more complex. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300