The bouquet of this wine—like the color—is dense and impenetrable, a brooding inky purpleness that’s almost overwhelming. Flavors are embryonic and unevolved, but lean toward blackberry, blueberry and spice, with an almost chewy texture in the mouth. This is closed in and not very flashy right now, but it shows all the material for the cellar.——J.C.(5/1/2007)—— 92