The plush, elegant, exotic 2004 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde, which is the only wine that has 3-4% Viognier in the blend, boasts sweet litchi nut, honeysuckle, raspberry, and smoky cherry notes with some tapenade and spice. It is medium-bodied with tangy acidity and a layered mouthfeel. Anticipated maturity: now-2014. P.S. The least expensive wine Rostaing makes, which comes from the Coteaux du Languedoc, is the 2004 Puech Chaude. A blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 10% Grenache, aged 50% in tank and 50% and barrel, it is a beauty and ideal for drinking in its first 3-4 years of life.2004 is a classic vintage for Rostaing, who succeeded in a tough year in the Northern Rhone by performing severe crop-thinning measures during the growing season. Nevertheless, these wines are dwarfed by his freakishly rich 2003s and his beautiful 2005s, which he claims are “the best vintage I’ve made.”Importer: Manny Berk, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

In stark contrast to the ’05, the 2004 C?te R?tie C?te Blonde was open, evolved and ready to go. Loaded with garrigue, saddle leather, spice, and sweet raspberry and cassis-like fruit, it’s a wine I’d drink over the coming decade while the fruit is still lively.