This Sangiovese has a lot going for it: a sweet maple-tinged aroma, a pretty ruby color, round but snappy plum and raspberry flavors, and a long, layered finish. But in the end it doesn’t really sing, it’s a bit hollow at the core, and there’s an oak-driven, buttered popcorn note on the finish that leaves a heavy, lasting flavor. ——M.S.(8/1/2002)—— 87