Gentian, rose, and purple plum distillates along with mothball strikingly mark the esterous, borderline volatile nose of Kreydenweiss’ 2006 Gewurztraminer Kritt. There is a spirituous aura to the palate impression here too, but not on account of any alcoholic heat, and the wine’s sweetness is well-integrated and supportive of its persistently wafting floral perfume. Subtle creaminess does not preclude a certain refreshment, nor high ripeness a sense of lift. I would plan to savor this hauntingly lovely, almost ethereal wine over the next 2-3 years, or at least monitor it carefully thereafter. Marc Kreydenweiss and is son Antoine continue to favor true dryness, as well as malo-lactic fermentation and long lees contact, conveying a unique style that has stood the test of time not only from vintage to vintage (including numerous 2006 successes) but in the bottle as well. “It was really an extremely easy vintage in the cellar,” remarks Antoine Kreydenweiss of 2007 with its healthy, high acid (nearly all tartaric) fruit, and a picking window “that lasted from the 19th of September until the end of November, enabling each cepage and parcel to be picked at its precise level of maturity.” There was a Riesling S.G.N. here in 2007, which had by no means finished fermenting the last time I visited.Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

The gold color and mouth-coating density of this wine attest to a high level of ripeness. Although the aromas could be fresher, notes of toasted bread and lychees are quite appealing. An off-dry palate makes it a good foil for Thai food.——W.E.(4/1/2009)—— 89