An outstanding effort is the 2006 Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch. A nose of sweet currants, cherries, and fresh tobacco is followed by a medium-bodied wine with a light ruby color, an elegant personality, and a fresh finish. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 942-4699; Fax (707) 942-5142

Failla has a great track record with this vineyard, which is source to many wineries. The ’06 is fresh and vibrant, and needs a little time to develop. It shows classic balance, with rich tannins, crisp acidity and brilliantly ripe, oak-inspired flavors of cherries, black raspberries, cola and currants. As delicious as it is now, it’s nervous and tentative. Give it a few years to come around.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 94