Pure, unfettered fruit concentration is the calling card of the 2020 Reserve Chardonnay. That, and the acid. The focus on blocking malolactic fermentation in the Chardonnays at Xanadu has imbued the wines with line, focus and purity, and it allows them to evolve, very slowly, over a long period of time. This wine, today, in its youth, pulses with life and vibrancy, and it is the best example I can think to give of the power and acid inherent in the Gingin clone. The Lagan Vineyard (situated just outside the cellar door) performs just like this each year. Almost impervious to the seasons, save for a slight nod in their direction, the vineyard is balanced and possessed of its own identity. Crystalline and almost austere, this is toasty and spiced, with layers of undulating flavor through the fine, spooling finish. A monumental wine of endless potential.