The most abundant cuvee here is 1998 Chardonnay Estate (2,200 cases). A medium to full-bodied, spicy, powerful Chardonnay, it reveals cinnamon, honeyed tropical fruits, and toast nicely presented in a full-bodied, well-balanced format. It should drink well for 2-3 years. The best chance of obtaining any of these wines is to get on the winery’s mailing list, or at least on the waiting list to get on the mailing list. Tel. (707) 433-2305; Fax (707) 433-2358.

Lots of toasty oak and figgy fruit make for a pleasant bouquet that encourages you to dig in. It’s toasty and appley enough, but it shows some restraint as well. A very nice, on-the-money Chard that impresses more with its correctness than pomp or power.——W.E.(6/1/2000)—— 89