帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
89
WA, #203Oct 2012
The 2011 Malbec is sourced from Perdriel, Uco and Medrano from vines located at around 900m altitude. The wine is fermented in cement tanks and raised in third use French barrel for 11 months. The nose demands a little coaxing from the glass, but eventually reveals a crisp, pointed nose of black fruit laced with bell pepper that is well-defined, awakening with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a taut, crisp entry. The tannins are bold and ripe, although it needs a little more weight of fruit towards the back end, a little more “girth.” Still, this is a well-crafted, accomplished, entry-level Malbec – a perfect introduction to the genre. Drink now-2017. Achaval Ferrer should need no introduction to anyone with a passing interest in Argentinean wine, a paradigm of how far the country has progressed over the last decade. In 2011, founders Santiago Achaval and Manuel Ferrer sold a large percentage of shares to the SPI group that owns Stolichnaya vodka as well as shares in Tenuto d’Ornellaia and Frescobaldi, although both Ferrer and Achaval remain on the managing board. Instead of visiting the winery (which I intend to do in the future), I tasted wines past and present with Santiago in London, where I was afforded more time to plot the wine’s development in the glass. The tasting was no revelation, since I have encountered and appreciated the wines for many years. They are well-crafted, very pure and stylistically equidistant between Old World and New. My reviews will seem meaner and the scores more parsimonious than might be anticipated. It simply reflects where I see the wines in the context of such a comprehensive overview of a dynamic country – great wines for sure and very consistent, but perhaps others have stepped up their game? The older vintages have certainly held up well, although a demanding connoisseur would expect more in the way of secondary aromas and flavors to replace the lost primary ones.Importer: TGIC Imports, Woodland Hills, CA; tel. (818) 225-5100; and Corney & Barrow (UK)