The 2004 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso Ca’ del Laito reveals notable richness in its ripe jammy fruit, caramelized sugar, grilled herbs and toasted oak. The wine offers terrific depth on the palate in an engaging style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. This is another superb set of wines from Tommaso Bussola. The highlights are the 2004 Amarones, which are phenomenal. Sadly, prices have become just as breathtaking as the wines themselves. Still, these are among the most unique wines being made anywhere. Bussola has delayed the release of his 2003 Amarones, as he feels they need more time. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Ripe, crushed fruit, well-extracted and still fresh.