The 2008 Barolo shows good up-front sweetness and richness in its dark fruit, sweet herbs, flowers and spices. Hints of tobacco and licorice develop in the glass, adding further complexity and nuance. This is an excellent introduction to the house style of one of Barolo’s most idiosyncratic producers. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. This is another strong set of wines from Burlotto. Over the last few years the winery seems to have made a major jump in quality. The traditional style here remains a bit quirky but readers who are willing to take some time to explore these Baroli will be amply rewarded. Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484, Bacchanal Wine Imports, Port Chester, NY, tel. (914) 481-5171